we originally wanted to go to tibet, but that got thrown out the window when we found out you have to go with a tour group.
then we wanted to go to thailand, by bus, through myamar/vietnam but that got thrown out the window too when we realized neither of us could speak enough vietnamese or burmese to get us through those countries.
so decided just to go to haerbin for the awesome light festival.
i got a hint of how travelling would be like around chinese new year (think travelling during christmas, thanksgiving, and new years in the states combined~) when i tried to buy tickets to haerbin. they said they would start selling tickets at 9am, but by 9am 2 whole trains were already sold out (how that worked, all i can say is TIC [this is china] (read "guanxi"aka through connections) ) anyway, one of my friends ended up getting tickets and took awesome pictures here

first picture of the trip taken of sarah, my travel buddy, whose apple rolled on the floor of the bus, but decided she was hungry and used hand sanitizer to clean it :P
anyway, so we took a 48-hour train ride from bj to kunming (top right corner to bottom left corner of the middle kingdom) where i travelled w/ 2 of sarah's polish buddies who were in her oral chinese class. the beds were super cramped and i couldn't fully sit up (i know, even relatively short asian girls like me can't sit up...) so i laid on my back and read for most of the time, resulting in much butt-soreness.

a girl that sarah and i saw during a potty break at the gas station. she was playing with a blonde-hair barbie and was probably super surprised when she saw sarah. i told sarah she prob thought she was a life-sized barbie :)
after arriving in kunming, we got suckered by a security guard who had connections (nobody's safe in china) and got cheated maybe Y100 more (about 13 bucks US) for a bus to dali. but it's okay :) ppl gotta make a living somehow and lots worse could have happened.


translated into "The world's most amazing dinosaur village", this random town we passed had murals of dinosaurs on the face of every building facing the highway we were on
once we got to dali, we couldn't find the hostel. after asking some policemen, we figured out that we were in the wrong dali. if i had read the lonely planet more closely, i would've seen (which i did later while waiting for the bus to the correct place) that there's a new dali and old dali... and we were in the wrong dali. by then it was dark, we were tired, the bus didn't come, so we just took a cab ride to the right dali...
finally arrived in old dali, walked around for about 20 minutes but couldn't find our hostel... found an english sign that said "sandwiches, coffee, and free internet acess" and i ordered my first western meal in a veryyyy long time, oily fries and all:

yah baby, my lovely fried chicken burger.
sarah was the more asian one and decided to get fried rice, which she said still tasted relatively american.

bustin' out the chopsticks~
anyway, so as soon as we got to dali, this old guy started following us, telling us in his broken, heavily-accented english to follow us to his hostel. but we already booked one, and he looked shady so we ignored him. after spending a good hr and 1/2 in the restaurant w/ my greasy fries and sarah's american style rice, we continued our trek, only to find that he had been waiting outside...

Dali 大理 city gate
anyway, following the address in lonelyplanet, we continued our search for this mysterious hostel. as we walked across the cobbled sidewalks of dali lugging our luggage, this guy kept following us. by now it was like 11pm and there were no streetlights and i was praying hard. haha :) after another 20 minutes he had shut up about his hostel but was still following us, even though it was really obvious that we were not staying at any of his hostel recommendations.
but he still followed us... just silently, occasionally inspecting his fingernails.

cows in dali. soooo random...
so finally, sarah and i just picked a random hostel and checked in, partly to get rid of this guy, but mostly because we were beat and wanted to sleep in a bed. our $3 "bed" was actually a cloth set up on top of a mattress, camping-style, 8 to a "room". we went back downstairs to pay, and the guy was still there... just standing INSIDE the hostel.



dali is a quaint little town situated between mountains and lakes
by this time, i was like... well we're already in a hostel. maybe he just has nothing else to do but to follow random foreign looking girls. the owners of the hostel were trying to convince him to leave but he just kept standing there. thinking that the best thing to do was to ignore him, i started surfing the web and doing my own thing. i mean the worst that could happen was that he would be waiting in the morning for us... and hopefully he won't freeze to death. sarah and i guilt-tripped and probably freaked vince out when we told him about the guy :P (sorry)
anyway, the next morning, he was gone.


sarah and i tandem-biked the surrounding fields which was really fun because we got really lost and kept biking in and out of these really cute villages and every time we passed a whole bunch of guys who though they were really cool, they would scream out, "HELOOOOOO" haha which i think was the only phrase in english they knew. it was great, we got hello-ed at a lot. and we got fire-crackered at too~ 哈哈
sarah joked that she should just ni hao them every time they hello-ed her. they would probably freak out that a waiguoren (foreigner) knew how to speak their language.
but couldn't find any of the restaurants listed in lonelyplanet. strike2.
anyway, tandem biking is awesome and it was fun just biking around the country-side, enjoying the 6th largest freshwater lake in china and the wonderful clean air.

we hired horses to go up the mountain to find the cable cars that the lonelyplanet specifically stated were supposed to be amazing. cept they don't exist anymore. strike3. from then on, we sorta just didn't use the guidebook.
anyway, after a day of hitting up mountains and lakes and enjoying the fresh air, we moved on to lijiang, a town similar to dali. we left that night and while on the bus, God surprised me with a breath-taking view of the stars. oh mannnn it was so mind-blowing, but there was no way the camera could capture it. so yah, you'll have to take my word for it. the stars in yunnan during the winter are amazing.
of course, lonelyplanet didn't say anything about that :)


